Baja California

Gray Whales in Guerrero Negro: Now is the Time to Plan Your Trip

Hundreds of baby grays are born in Baja!

About Guerrero Negro

February and March are the key months for whale-watching in Guerrero Negro, which is about 440 miles from the San Diego/San Ysidro border crossing and a half-way stop between Tijuana and Cabo San Lucas on the Transpeninsular Highway.

Although private planes can be chartered to get there, most people arrive in Guerrero Negro by tour bus (check out Baja California Tours) or car.

The drive should only be attempted in daylight – nighttime driving is fraught with hazards that can include switchback roads, fast semi-trailer trucks and wandering animals. Good stops along the way include San Quintin or Catavina, both of which feature pleasant Desert Inn (formerly La Pinta) hotels.

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It's a good idea to gas up when you have the opportunity in San Quintin or El Rosario.The Pemex station in Catavina has not been open for a long time, but there are usually several men lining the road there, offering gas cans for sale.

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Just to the north of Guerrero Negro, you cross into Baja California Sur, changing time zones. (On Central Standard Time from April through October, Guerrero Negro is an hour ahead of California and northern Baja).

Outside of town is a federal checkpoint, where you will most likely be asked to show your passport and travel visa –if you do not have a Mexico travel visa, you will be required to purchase one there.Shortly after the checkpoint, you will veer off the highway to the right and into town.

Where to Stay in Guerrero Negro

Guerrero Negro is small, hence accommodations are somewhat limited and reservations should be made in advance.

The Malarrimo is basic but clean, and the hub of eco-tours.

The best choice for whale watchers is the basic but fun Hotel Malarrimo, run by Luis Enrique Achoy Cota. (The Malarrimo trailer park is also available, with 22 RV sites).For one thing, the eco-tours leave from the hotel's parking area.For another, the hotel is very clean, inexpensive ($45 per room per night) and has the best restaurant in town (an important consideration, given that Guerrero Negro is not known for its abundant dining spots).

The famous giant Guerrero Negro sea scallops and locally cultivated oysters on the half-shell come highly recommended!

The Halfway Inn (formerly the Desert Inn) is also a good choice but is a bit outside of town.

Depending on season, the rooms run approximately $75-80 per night.

Don Miguelitos is an inexpensive and acceptable choice.

Whales Up Close – The Tour

The whale-watching eco-tours take place twice a day, and begin at the Malarrimo Hotel, with buses leaving from the parking lot.

It is about a 30 minute trip to the lagoon, where a fleet of small boats (pangas) awaits.

Each panga carries up to 10 people.

Once out in the lagoon, the boat operators act as spotters and relay whale sitings to each other.

Sometimes it takes awhile, sometimes not.

But it is not unusual to see a mature whale breach the water straight up, like a missile (males average 16 tons, females 30-35 tons).

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At times, whales appear to roil the waters all around, including cows and their babies that snuggle tightly up against mom's side.

Every once in awhile, like a huge shadow, a whale will glide beneath the panga boat, coming up to roll over right next to breathless boat passengers. As the sleek beast turns, barnacles and lichen are visible on the whale's skin.

There is often a moment when a big whale eyeball gazes at the humans with benign curiosity as its head lolls slowly back into the ocean.

Sometimes, the whales are close enough to touch but, as the boat operator cautions, it's vital not to touch the whale anyplace near its blowhole!

The three-hour-tour (yes, Gilligan) passes by in a flash, usually ending with a quick visit to some rather lardacious sealions who bark their goodbyes to the ecotourists.

Eco-tours, operated by Malarrimo Eco-tours, are $45 per person, with a $4 additional National Park fee charged.

Baja.com is a comprehensive online source of first-hand travel information for Baja, California, supported by a full-service travel agency staffed with local "Travel Savants".Baja.com offers Baja travelers expert advice about local restaurants, hotels and vacation rentals, as well as guides, maps and articles about events, sports and activities. To contact Baja.com, call 855-BAJA-411 or email info@baja.com.

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