Huapango. No, we're not talking about the folk dance from Veracruz, but the beer that has been on my mind since I first tasted it at Ensenada's Summer Beer Fest, one that must be on everyone's list for the season.
"If you don't like it, you come back and tell me, and I'll give you your money back", the mustached bartender told me at La Calaña's stand that Saturday. It's guaranteed to satisfy, like one of those infomercial products you see at 2 a.m. on TV. I fell for the marketing trick, regardless, and traded 60 pesos for one of their Wheat ales.
It may have been the beer's temperature or the relief I felt when it quenched my thirst on that hot Ensenada afternoon; regardless, the taste stayed on my mouth.
The first mouthful brought along a silky sensation with a bubbly finish, the second one made me notice some fruity overtones, and on the third one I felt a cleaner fermentation, much closer to an American-style beer, without as much yeast as a Hefweizen, giving it its clear color.
The Huapango is a perfect argument against those who are absolutely convinced that stronger flavors and darker tones are the only way, and that drinking a lighter or golden beers are just water with a dash of alcohol.
The downside: Huapango I drank that afternoon was a sort of "experiment", as La Calaña brewers put it. You will find a bottle until August at the Sanos steakhouse in Ensenada, and maybe one or two bars at La Plaza in Tijuana. Maybe I crave it so much because it's a limited edition, but still, the Huapango
is a beer you can't miss during the summer season if you're visiting Ensenada.
Stay connected to San Diego Red through
miranda.garcia@sandiegored.com
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