Baja California

Baja Brewers Debate Meaning of Craft Beer

The Baja Craft beer world seen from another perspective

Since the craft beer movement started to be more noticeable in Mexico, the subject has been a constant topic of conversation in both media and on the streets, and Baja California is part of this phenomenon, being known as the "official" craft beer capital of Mexico, with most of the 50 best craft beers in Mexico coming from Baja, according to Ratebeer.

The President of the Brewers Association of Baja California, Francisco Ussel,says that breweries keep growing while new entrepreneurs are waiting to open their own. Thus there are already more than 100 breweries in the state and counting:

Now, between all the beer from bars, tap rooms, festivals, and retailers, the questions comes up more and more among those in the industry: so what exactly is a craft beer? Some Baja brewers explain to us what it really means for them and the future of the "movement".

Independence

Ussel explains that there's no definite concept when talking about craft beer. He emphasizes that craft beer is not exactly something you make with "your hands", as many think while comparing it with arts and crafts; however, he mentions that there's three very important parameters that any craft beer brewer has to cover:

- An independent establishment

- Private funds

- Produce up to 6 million kegs per year.

This last point, volume of production per year, hasn't been achieved-yet-, because Ussel says that "even if all breweries in the state came together, not even a third of this amount would be possible for us." Craft beer breweries in Mexico produce a bit more than 62,000 of kegs annually, in contrast with the mega companies that reach an average of 61 million each year.

This image represents the equivalent of production from the more famous brands in Mexico, such as Grupo Modelo, and Cuauhtemoc Moctezuma Heineken:

And this image represents the beer produced by the most important 50 craft beer breweries in Baja California.

Secret ingredients

All beers are made in the same way, no matter if they use pots or huge tanks, what makes craft beer special is its ingredients, more so if they're local. Fruits, coffee, blue "piloncillo" (a type of sugar), and real honey, are part of the elements some of these beers have.

What about "Cucapá" y "Lagunitas"? Are they considered craft beers?

Some members of the Brewers Association say that popular breweries from Tijuana, such as Mexicana, Cucapá and Bocanegra, are no longer craft beers; why? Because they were acquired by Grupo Modelo, a beer conglomerate that now invests in their production and distribution, meaning they're no longer independent.

This is what happens with "Lagunitas", which now can be bought in convenience stores like Oxxo; and "Patito de Yucatan", which would be released for sale in Southern Mexico thanks to Heineken.

On the other hand, for many, a real craft beer means a different flavor, and for Ivan Morales, co-founder of Insurgente Brewery, having an IPA at your reach for only $3.00 dlls, whether it's from a big brewer or craft brewer, is the perfect way to get to know new flavors and taste the options other beers have for you.

What does it mean to be a craft beer brewer in Baja California?

"To be a brewer is the ability to create a beer just as you want it to be, as you like it, and saying goodbye to common flavors. The chance of creating something." Said Raul Aispuro, owner of Funes, a five-year-old brewery in Tijuana.

Although every brewer has a different opinion in the matter, they all agree in one thing: Being a craft beer brewer is fun. Many of them didn't think of it as a business, rather a way of enjoying their favorite drink while remembering how their grandmothers experimented with flavors in huge pots in the kitchen, where they made pozole or other delicious Mexican dishes.

"I think that in some way we are contributing to changes in the state, and in how Tijuana is particularly evolving, attracting tourism. We are a small, medium, or big part that is participating in those changes, and that keeps me excited. We are changing the image of Tijuana", stressed Ivan Morales, brewer of Insurgente.

Future of craft beer: More local breweries

Brewers and tourists agree that craft beer in Baja California is a growing success. Ivan Morales sees Baja California as the Mexican version of its northern brother, California; "the gringo state of California in Mexico", he calls it. For the founder of Funes, the craft beer movement vision will help the state to be transformed into a second Germany, a country famous for having "a house beer" in every town and neighborhood.

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Translated by: cristina.mora@sandiegored.com

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