TECATE – Martín San Román was one of the first chefs to introduce the use of local, sustainable ingredients and farm-to-table sensibilities to fine dining in Baja California — first with early restaurants El Rincon San Román and Tour de France in Tijuana, and now in his "rustic chic" outdoor kitchen La Terrasse San Roman in the Valle de Guadalupe.

Earlier this year, the chef was invited to consult on the new menu at Tecate's renowned Asao, a decidedly white tablecloth restaurant with fantastic city views from its perch atop a hill near the border fence. The menu at Asao has always had a European flair, given that former executive chef Roberto Alcocer marked his return to Baja California here after studying in France and Spain.

Dining room at Asao. Photo: AGringoInMexico.com

Chef San Román plans to continue the tradition, but with his own signature dishes, touches and farm and sea-to-table sensibilities. "What I'm doing at Asao is showcasing my Mexican French cuisine," chef San Román emphasized during a recent media dinner at the restaurant.

"The new menu offers a number of items that combine local Mexican ingredients from the sea, farms, and ranches with French and Mexican cooking techniques. It was an honor to be asked to design the new menu here at Asao, and we hope that both locals and our visitors will enjoy it." Chef de cuisine Eulogio Rivas worked with San Román on the menu and helms the kitchen at Asao. The menu revamp also includes breakfast items.

Breakfast at Asao. Photo: AGringoInMexico.com

Before the media dinner, members of San Diego and Baja California press were greeted at Asao's large, comfortable, and accommodating bar, where we were offered a snifter of Tequila San Román blanco. The chef has been working on a line of fine tequilas for several years, and recently introduced his blanco, reposado, añejo, and super añejo to the US. The tequila was smooth, lacking the bite of many young, un-oaked blancos, and had a pleasant, peppery finish.

We'd enjoyed some local cheese from Real de Castillo and a nice ceviche tostada made from the day's catch with our tequilas. After we were seated in Asao's elegant, open, and high-ceilinged space, the seafood continued with our first course of grilled octopus kebabs marinated in guajillo chile and honey. Octopus can be tricky, but the long, meaty tentacles were nicely grilled with just a touch of char for texture and taste.

Octopus kebabs. Photo: AGringoInMexico.com

Next up were the grilled duck tacos, served with apple and caramelized onion with a side of habanero sauce. While the duck was succulent and moist and I enjoyed the tip of the tongue heat of the habanero sauce, the finished tacos were left on the grill just a little too long and the tortillas were burnt black around the edges. Aside from this busy kitchen misstep, it's a good dish, and I'd enjoy trying it again in the full a la carte version, sans char.

A potage is a thick, French soup similar to porridge. Chef San Román's version at Asao, the Mediterranean seafood potage, is a thoughtful arrangement of local mussels shrimp, clams, octopus and a toasted crisp covered in aioli. The wait staff pours the thick seafood and chile-infused potage into diners' bowls containing the ingredients to complete the dish's construction. The potage was good. Really good. I just had a salivary reaction just thinking about it.

Asao Mediterranean Seafood Potage. Photo: AGringoInMexico.com

The highlight of the cilantro risotto and grilled shrimp was the shrimp. Several of my colleagues commented that they'd never had a shrimp so moist, meaty, and perfectly grilled. The creamy cilantro risotto was well balanced and had a welcome subdued cilantro flavor. The often attention-grabbing herb mellowed nicely in this preparation and didn't overpower the other ingredients as I suspected it might.

Cilantro risotto and grilled shrimp. Photo: AGringoInMexico.com

"I braised the short rib for four hours," chef San Román shared as our meat course was served. "It should fall right off the bone." Indeed it did, comingling nicely with the very Mexican/French pasilla peppers and red wine sauce in which it was marinated and served.

Braised short rib. Photo: AGringoInMexico.com

For our postre, we were served a sinful slab of chocolate cheesecake with sides of chocolate nougat and cajeta (Mexican caramel). Those who still had the fortitude after the dinner's wine pairings with Tecate vineyard Ulloa tried a taste of the Tequila San Román extra añejo. At this level – five years mellowing in oak – tequila begins to take on some of the characteristics of a fine cognac, and the vanilla and cinnamon notes of this excellent tequila jibed with the dessert.

Tequila San Román Extra Añejo. Photo: AGringoInMexico.com

In addition to being the gateway to Baja California's wine country – the Valle de Guadalupe – Tecate is home to some surprisingly good cuisine these days, from casual dining to the patio at Asao. Often overlooked by north of the border foodies, Tecate is a destination unto itself — and chef Martín San Román's new menu at Asao awaits your exploration.

Restaurante Asao and Santuario Diegueño are located on Calle del Rio Lerma 798, Esteban Cantu, 21420 Tecate, Baja California, Mexico. Phone: +52 ( 665) 654 4777. http://www.santuariodiegueno.com.

The author would like to thank Santuario Diegueño – the hotel adjoining Restaurante Asao – for providing overnight accommodations for members of our media tour. Chef San Román and the restaurant management invited us to dine as their guests and the author received complimentary food and beverage. No other compensation was received for writing this article, and all opinions are those of the author — who has spent his own pesos at Restaurante Asao during past visits.

San Diego-based culture, food and travel journalist W. Scott Koenig has explored Mexico and Baja California for over two decades. He founded AGringoInMexico.com in 2012 to report on south of the border destinations, food, culture and adventure. The website has since become an invaluable source of information on the burgeoning food and culture scene in Baja California, as well as the wider scene throughout Mexico. Visit Scott's websites and social media via the links, below.

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